>>1400Macro photography... DSLR or EVIL (Electronic Viewfinder Interchangeable Lens) camera;
You do use m43 system, r-right... as its the most flexible, portable and cyb camera system out there... as camera SYSTEMS go this is as close to open source as it gets - as in it fits near any lens and has many different manufactures making for it not just 1 or 2 like CaNikon!
Also m43 has some advantages with macro shooting... more dof than a ff or aps-c sensor and a grater zoom (magnification) for a given lens length.
First off a normal macro lens wont be powerful enough, 1:1 in macro lens speak means the image projected on the sensor is the same size as the thing your looking at... 1mm object will project across 1mm of the sensor!
You can get a 5:1 macro (only for m43), this might start getting there ($$$):
http://www.yasuhara.co.jp/nanoha/index-e.htmlFailing that the way to step up your macro game is with some macro extension tubes (~$10)... these move the lens further away from the sensor, allowing a much closer focus point, works well with a moderate zoom e.g. >100mm.
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/macro-extension-tubes-closeup.htmFinally you can move to bellows (~$50), same theory as extension tubes but just a lot longer and can get serious macro... excellent snow flake detail type of zoom!
http://www.macrobellows.com/technique.phpRemember m43 will be 2x zoom of FF cameras on this page!
The extension tubes and bellows are quality and cheap ways of getting top macro - you can use normal kit lenses, so nothing fancy - but it still renders with amazing detail, making excellent results from standard lenses.
There is an unorthodox 3rd way... you can get filter ring reverse mounts (~$5)... these allow you to put your lens on backwards! This also gives good macro with zoom lenses very cheap. More zoom = more macro!
http://digital-photography-school.com/reverse-lens-macro-close-up-photography-lesson-3/Off all these methods the bellows will allow the most macro shoots!
Finally, tips:
Use loads of light - 3 of them if needs be!
Have very very stable tripod and subject table.
Focusing will be more sensitive than a burn victims bell-end!
Shut down the aperture to around f16 to allow as much DOF as possible - will result in slower shutter speeds.
Use shutter delay timer, so you don't jog image when pressing shutter button (very important for macro).
A camera with live view LCD is much easier to work and focus on macro.
Remember just 1/10th of a mm jog or movement will be a blur over a large % of your image size! - keep everything exceptionally braced and still.
I might be tempted to crack open my original Pentium 60MHz and try a photo!
