diy - DIY & Electronics

>>1391
I hated that book. Dont know what it was but just couldnt get into it. It is free and you can take the free mit 6002x course with it though.

>DEF CON 18 - Chris Paget - Practical Cellphone Spying

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQSu9cBaojc

but he spent ~1500 US$

>>1064
Yeah I saw that, but I want to go a step further, like have a "market-ready" type thing and not just some initial hack, although I was quite impressed with what he did.

We want to beat the NSA at it's own game, hehe.

I'd be down to help out with that. Anything programming related that is.

>>1175
I myself can do that as well, I think when it comes to this project we have plenty of software people, but the hardware aspect is the pain in the but.

>>1063
ty for the maths

Where do you live where it gets that hot?

Also it's definitely been done before, just mod your existing router with an old heatsink or some fans, fuarrrk buying stuff - you're on /diy/ for a reason.

>>1452
>Where do you live where it gets that hot?
I'm in a pretty temperate region but my family always has about a dozen devices streaming on one poorly ventilated router. Figured I'd try cooling it better first instead of buying a repeater or something.
>just mod your existing router with an old heatsink or some fans
I'm trying this now, actually, just thought I'd ask people with some experience in case there's something not so obvious I wouldn't know about.
I'll post pics if it ends up looking good.

>>1442
You're doing it wrong anon, you're supposed to pretend you're a 14 year old girl and would anyone like to come to your house and have a seat.

>>1442
The variety of people that browse here always surprises me.

Just wrap it in aluminium foil

>>1448
I think the idea of having a specific pouch for it is that it doesn't look so conspicuous when you are out and about.

I love my current coat but it doesn't have any inside pockets. I've been meaning to stitch a new one in for a while, so I guess I'll have a go with something like this.

>>1315
There's a thread on /diy/ where someone posted a recipe for homemade instant noodles, you should check it out.

>>1316
This?? >>977

Thanks!

>>1309
>putting meat in borscht
absolutely disgusting

>>1310
I'd love to do something like this, but for Australia. You cannot get soylent here full stop.

>>263
>>264
That looks good, Lainon. One of my cousins built a brick oven and I've used it and the pizza is pretty damn good. No pictures like you've got, but I'll make sure to take some if I do it again.

>>807
Go to a laundry to have your clothes cleaned and find one of those stores where they sell replacement parts, maybe they'll help you.

>>807
>wtf is C0C
Could you have misread it, or the display is damaged, and it was actually C06 or C08?

>>809
Yeah, we were about to do that.
>>810
Nope, it was C0C. The manual said it could be C08 or C12, but the machine showed C0C. Display wasn't broken either.

I fixed it, lainons. Turns out it was soykaf built up in part of the water pressure meter.

>Builds up Pressure

>Prominently Displays C0C

>Receives Service, resulting in a Release of Pressure

>Doesn't even Pay for Cleanup

True, the immortal machine owns us now.

It will continue to outlive us and outwit us in every possible way for the remainder of our meat-existence.

>>849
Godspeed anon, you saved america.

>>1424
>carbon
No, second hand if you look will get you an ok bike... might have a few minor niggles but nothing too much.. But carbon is $$$, go for aluminium.

>>1425
>Carbon is bad meme
Alright i'm done with you.

>>1425
An aluminium full suspension bike is a waste of money.

>>1427
>>1426

Carbon is just too expecive to get a good frame without $$$ second hand (or new). Fine if your swag.
For full sus you better on the economy end to put that $$$ into suspention and other bits as long as the bike has a good geometry and a weight <17kg your gonna be fine. More is the type of suspension action used, some counter brake jack better than others, some have a diffrent rear sweep as travel changes. As well as trying to get a slacker head angle as more modern designs have.

>Aluminium is good value for money.

>>1139
Ditched the T-Lope and put a Nobby Nic in 2.25 on the front of my ML8.

Also sold the Thomson post and got a KS E-Ten dropper.

2nd bike is my Trek 970 (winter)beater bike.

>>1432
>I still have it and instead of buying a new one I want to try rebuilding it with new parts.
Why the fuck would you do that?
>I think the heating element aka the inducer is fried.
Maybe they sold you a 120v soldering iron when your mains is 240, in any case those are rubbish and if the heating element has broken there's nothing to do to save it.

If you want a soldering iron to use for many years I recommend one of these, a velleman. I have a lower end model and it still works fine after 5 years, I haven't even changed the tip and it's still nice and shiny. It's less than 30$ for a good quality product that will last a good portion of your life.

well i dont have very much cash and it was my first buy so i had no idea it would b so soykaf but i guess i have no choice but to buy a new one

>>1435
It was just a bad buy, my first soldering iron was $3 and I used it for well over a year of occasional use. The cheap thing in those is the tip, the tin literally eats through it.
But as >>1434 says, if the heating element is gone there is nothing left to save. Cables are rubbish and so is the tip, maybe you can reuse the handle for something if you really want that buck back.
And as he said, if you buy online you must always check the voltage it's supposed to operate at. This shouldn't be a problem in stores.
My second one was a $10 one (it came with a lot of tips and soykaf like that) and it still works, but the cable was horribly stiff and I replaced it with a clothes iron cable, much longer and very very soft.
My third and current is a cheap $15 regulated soldering station, it has a little trimmer to set the temperature. It's not really temperature controlled, I think it's just a trimmer that sets the value of a pwm, but it does the trick.

Dude, just get a soldering station with a removable iron and temperature control. That single-setting cheap soykaf will end up doing more damage than good once you start messing with heat-sensitive components.

were you leaving it plugged in too long? unfortunately these cheap ones that don't have an on off need to be pretty frequently unplugged and plugged back in, every 5 minutes or so usually.

1.99 soldering irons can last a long time if you are careful. doubt like many people are saying that the iron itself was just fuarrrked because it was cheap.

>>245

>shows different ideas for making thermal protection - shows how diffrent materiels work in thermal.
(skip to 1 min)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PLo5iCEcX4&spfreload=10

See quality of military IR camera.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4t4biiCN1Q&spfreload=10

About the drones and thermal imaging capabilities (skip to 2:10)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-4BN5LttYQ&spfreload=10

Would not let me embed?

>>245
N.B. If you like this follow the link to the youtube playlist - lots more stuff from her!

>>233
Nice dubs.

Anyone got any new or different ideas about this? I think that this sounds rather amazing.

>>939
Not thermal and not clothing...
But well stealthy!

GhostBlind

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2EeappH-zY

>>1422
Thinking about it, it probably is a good thermal blocker too. Make a nice portable hide. (although not exactly drone proof)

This is the creation of the lining. Despite what I said earlier, that part is pretty hot so even if you skip this you will probably be fine. But cleaning a clogged extruder is one of the most boring things ever, so better avoid that.

I used part of the PTFE bowden tube. It is obviously too big to fit inside there, so I had to sand it a bit. The hard part about it is that you have to keep it the most round possible, to ensure good connection (thus heat exchange) with the outside metal part. I used a drill (aka tiny handheld lathe) to make it spin, using a 2mm drill bit butt put inside to keep the thing steady.
Another thing you want to know about PTFE is that it is extremely slippery. So it will slip away at the first chance or stop, better not apply too much force with the abrasive tool. The abrasive tool I'm using is just a cheap knockoff dremel.
After some tries I made it fit, and now you can see how both have a ptfe lining.

Again, this was probably unnecessary but I'll never tire of complaining about how damn boring is to clean an extruder

Do not forget to check if your filament can pass without effort through it, because hard to push filament means hotter motor and possibly clogs.

Now I'll take a break and then either disassemble the Z axis or post some photos of the hot-end body and assembly.

I am not looking forward trying to take down the backlash remover. I used springs that are too strong and compressing them was a pain. Now I have to remove them with the thing half installed (I am sure as hell not taking it down and redoing all the alignment).
So well, here are some more photos, this time it's the hot end.

So, in the first image you see how you want it to be assembled.
There MUST be a small gap between the heatsink and the heater, because that allows to have only that tiny bridge of metal as transition. It makes a real difference and you will most probably clog the extruder if you do otherwise. I believe that they're too close but I don't want to get the screw out more, because it will have too little part inside the heater and I also prefer it to be fastened tightly on the other side (the one with the fins), because it will make it easier to clean if it clogs (although it shouldn't).
The second image is the example of how you do NOT want to do it.
The little scheme on the side is an explanation of how the temperature must be inside of the hot-end.
As you see, the hot part is only the one down, I am not sure but I think the best thing would be if the connection part and the nozzle were connected without that buffer chamber in the middle, but my things are a little short and anyway there is really hot so it doesn't matter for clogging. If the heat goes up in the zone where it is supposed to be cooling, the filament will start to melt there, and when finally reaches the part where it should be cold, it creates a puddle in the connecting part and as soon as it cools, your hot end will be clogged.

In the third photo there is a closeup of the heater part, the red wired thing is the resistor, that should be 40w, there are also smaller ones at 3W for smaller printers I think. You can also see how I put the white PTFE tape on the threads. That is a thing you have to do if you use J-head style hot ends, because it might leak otherwise. I'm not sure if it's needed there but better safe than sorry.
I've also added a bit of threadlock hoping that it will prevent the thing from unfastening.
It shouldn't happen at that point (because it would have to take away all the damn wires) but then again, better safe than sorry because that part vibrates a lot and it heats up. Once the resistor retainer screw on my j-head unfastened and it dropped on the plate and the print caught fire. That's when I started putting nPost too long. Click here to view the full text.

Couldn't push them to unlock them easily, had to damn unscrew them for the whole length. I've been turning those damn things for the last 30 minutes. At least it's done now.

Will not write much now, just dumping some photos of the old extruder.
It is a J-head model (because it looks like a J I suppose) and it is made of plastic (I don't remember what kind, but it softens at 245°C).
It was seriously abused, and even when it broke I kept printing the adapters for the bowden (although with poor results because I didn't compensate in extra flow for the part that I was losing on the sides).
The "burned" color is because of those leaks I was talking about earlier. if the plastic leaks down, it will burn on the heater and give you that color. It won't go away.

Maybe I should spoiler them. Watch out plastic gore ahead (or behind, by now).

By the way it is a pretty easy extruder to operate, it doesn't clog much (at least with 0.5 nozzle) even though I didn't have a dedicate fan. And if it clogged it was supereasy to disassemble, then just drop the whole thing in boiling water and you're set. At least with pla. But even ABS softens a bit at that temperatures, making cleaning really easy.
You can look online for the cutaways, but basically the black part is a tube and has a ptfe tube inside that drives the filament till the head, the nozzle is attached to the heater, they're just a single block of aluminum. The lining has a cap on the top that keeps it in place, is just a hollow very short allen screw.

Today I accidentally broke the glass printbed. They're pretty cheap because I just get 21x20 photo frames and get the glass. I also get some MDF wood, which is pretty useless but you might use it sometimes. It's just 2€, spending 10€ for the borosilicate kind is not worth it in my opinion. at least to print pla and ABS. I never had problems heating it up to 100°C, but if you want to use a particularly hot bed, then you might choose the borosilicate.
On the other hand, the photoframe glass is very thin, so when you go put it on the bed it warps a lot (my bed is about 0.15mm higher at the center, and that is A LOT for printing purposes) if you use clips, rendering bed leveling impossible. You can still print obviously, but you either choose to only print at the center and accept that the borders my detach, or set it almost touching at the center so that the borders stick better. You have to find the right compromise.
Now I'll try to not use the clips anymore, I've read that people keep it in position with just tape, I want to try that.
Or maybe buy thicker glass, if I wasn't a dumb fag I could have scavenged the glass from a window that broke some time ago, that would have been cost effective.
This glass is 1.65mm thick.

Today's topic is actually the motor part of the extruder. I thought that I never showed you how the direct feed extruder was set up, so the first photo is a complete photo of the X axis carriage, the part on the top is the one that pushes the filament (which comes from a reel) and it is a Wade's geared extruder, the hot end is attached to the rest of the extruder with those two screws on the front just below the big screw with the bearing.

On the second photo you can just see how the bottom of the extruder without the hot-end looks, that hole is where the filament comes in and it enters the hot-end right away.

The third photo is more interesting, that is the inner part of the extruder and it shows how it works.
Starting from the beginning, the gears are the stepper transmission.
The big gear is connected to that screw, that is called hobbed bolt and it is the part that pulls the filament. Not all the extruders use a bolt, some use a proper gear, but it always does the same thing. It grabs the filament and it pushes it, and that's achieved thanks to the middle part which has all those little teeth.
You can buy one, but if you have tools you can easily make one yourself, I made mine using Post too long. Click here to view the full text.

I don't really feel like working too much today so I'll just talk about the bowden adapter for the Wade's extruder.

Baically, it's just the top part of a J-head style hot end, and it has a clamp for the tube inside.
Remember that if you have a universal extruder (1.75/3 mm) you'll have to run the PTFE tube up to the hobbed bolt. My extruder is only 1.75 so it didn't matter.
In the photo you can see the adapter disassembled, and you can notice a broken teeth on the clamp.
That's because the print quality was really bad (irl you can see all the parts where the extrusion was too low) and I was wondering how strong it was.
Answer: not enough.
But it doesn't matter, it works anyway.

Many times, especially when you are starting or when something breaks, you can't afford to be too picky. Just patch things up until you are up and running, then modify. Second pic very related to this concept. Since the support was not good for a bowden (I suspected it but I still wanted to try it) I had to patch it up with a small plastic sheet cut off one of those blister packs. Is it an optimal solution? hell no, but it works.

By the way, printer is now up and running, but now I need to draw and print most of the supports for the hot end and the extruder motor, which right now are just staying up thanks to mysterious forces or maybe thanks to cheap plastic and metal wire

I still need to find a satisfying fan. I tried the circular ones and they're pretty cool, I also bought a lot of blowers for them but it's damn hard to make one that won't hit the plate. Since I have to draw the mount for the extruder anyway I could attach it there.